{
 "_note": "FICTIONAL WALKED sample job. The address, client and findings are made up. Not a real house or inspection. Photos are stock / Wikimedia Commons illustrations (credits on the report page).",
 "job": {
  "address": "1950 Sample Lane, Anytown, USA",
  "client": "Sample Buyer",
  "property": "1950s brick ranch, 1,350 sq ft, full basement, public water and sewer",
  "inspection_date": "2026-10-07",
  "inspector": "WALKED sample (no inspector named)"
 },
 "stamp_counts": {
  "Hire a Pro": 4,
  "DIY": 4,
  "FYI": 2,
  "total": 10
 },
 "findings": [
  {
   "n": 1,
   "title": "Roof covering",
   "stamp": "FYI",
   "system": "Roof",
   "location": "South slope",
   "who": "Roofer (for a quote)",
   "raw_note": "Shingles curling south slope, some granule loss, roof looks 18 to 20 years old.",
   "narrative": "The shingles on the south slope are curling at the edges and losing some of their granules. That's normal wear for a roof that looks to be around 18 to 20 years old. I didn't see any leaks today, but this roof is near the end of its service life. Plan on budgeting for a replacement in the next few years, and ask a roofer for a quote so the number isn't a surprise.",
   "photo": "photos/01-roof-shingles.jpg",
   "photo_size": [
    1200,
    900
   ]
  },
  {
   "n": 2,
   "title": "Chimney flashing",
   "stamp": "Hire a Pro",
   "system": "Roof",
   "location": "Chimney / attic",
   "who": "Roofer",
   "raw_note": "Flashing gap at chimney, water stain on attic decking below, dry today.",
   "narrative": "There's a gap in the metal flashing where the chimney meets the roof. Right below it in the attic, the roof decking has a water stain. It was dry when I checked it today, but the stain shows water has gotten in before. Have a roofer reseal or replace the flashing and check the decking underneath before the next heavy rain.",
   "photo": "photos/02-chimney-flashing.jpg",
   "photo_size": [
    640,
    480
   ]
  },
  {
   "n": 3,
   "title": "Kitchen outlet protection",
   "stamp": "Hire a Pro",
   "system": "Electrical",
   "location": "Kitchen, right of sink",
   "who": "Electrician",
   "raw_note": "GFCI missing kitchen right of sink.",
   "narrative": "The outlet to the right of the kitchen sink isn't GFCI protected. A GFCI outlet shuts the power off in a split second if electricity starts flowing through water or a person, and outlets near a sink are where you need it most. Have a licensed electrician add GFCI protection here and check the other countertop outlets while they're there.",
   "photo": "photos/03-kitchen-outlet.jpg",
   "photo_size": [
    1200,
    936
   ]
  },
  {
   "n": 4,
   "title": "Electrical panel",
   "stamp": "Hire a Pro",
   "system": "Electrical",
   "location": "Main panel",
   "who": "Electrician",
   "raw_note": "Double tap on the 20 amp breaker, panel's otherwise clean.",
   "narrative": "In the main panel, one 20-amp breaker has two wires under a screw that's made for one. That's called a double tap. It can work loose over time and overheat. The rest of the panel looked clean and orderly. Have a licensed electrician separate those wires onto their own breakers or add a proper connector. It's usually a quick fix.",
   "photo": "photos/04-electrical-panel.jpg",
   "photo_size": [
    1200,
    1116
   ]
  },
  {
   "n": 5,
   "title": "Kitchen sink drain",
   "stamp": "DIY",
   "system": "Plumbing",
   "location": "Kitchen sink cabinet",
   "who": "You (call a plumber if it keeps dripping)",
   "raw_note": "Slow drip under kitchen sink at the trap, cabinet floor a little soft.",
   "narrative": "The drain trap under the kitchen sink has a slow drip at the slip nut, and the cabinet floor under it is starting to soften. Hand-tighten the nut, or replace the washer inside it, and wipe everything dry. Check it again after a day of normal use. If it keeps dripping or the cabinet floor keeps getting worse, call a plumber.",
   "photo": "photos/05-sink-p-trap.jpg",
   "photo_size": [
    1200,
    776
   ]
  },
  {
   "n": 6,
   "title": "Water heater relief valve",
   "stamp": "Hire a Pro",
   "system": "Plumbing",
   "location": "Water heater",
   "who": "Plumber",
   "raw_note": "Water heater tag says 2009, TPR valve has no discharge pipe.",
   "narrative": "The water heater's relief valve doesn't have a discharge pipe on it. If the tank ever overheats, this valve releases scalding water, and the pipe sends it safely down toward the floor instead of spraying whoever is standing nearby. Have a plumber install the pipe. The data plate shows the tank was made in 2009, which is older than most water heaters last, so ask the plumber about replacement options while they're there.",
   "photo": "photos/06-water-heater-tpr-valve.jpg",
   "photo_size": [
    1200,
    899
   ]
  },
  {
   "n": 7,
   "title": "Furnace filter",
   "stamp": "DIY",
   "system": "Heating",
   "location": "Furnace",
   "who": "You",
   "raw_note": "Furnace filter dirty, 2011 gas furnace, fired up and ran fine.",
   "narrative": "The gas furnace started up and ran normally. The filter is clogged with dust, which makes the system work harder and blow weaker air. Slide in a new filter of the same size, which is printed on the edge of the old one, and change it every one to three months. The furnace was made in 2011, so a yearly cleaning and safety check by an HVAC tech is a good habit from here on.",
   "photo": "photos/07-furnace-filter.jpg",
   "photo_size": [
    1200,
    900
   ]
  },
  {
   "n": 8,
   "title": "Air conditioning",
   "stamp": "FYI",
   "system": "Cooling",
   "location": "Outdoor A/C unit",
   "who": "No action now; yearly tune-up",
   "raw_note": "AC condenser 2012, cooled fine, 18 degree split, unit sitting a little off level.",
   "narrative": "The central air cooled the house normally. I measured an 18-degree temperature drop between the return and supply air, which is right in the normal range. The outdoor unit was made in 2012 and sits slightly off level on its pad. That isn't hurting anything today, but keep an eye on it. A yearly tune-up will help this older system keep running.",
   "photo": "photos/08-ac-condenser.jpg",
   "photo_size": [
    1181,
    1200
   ]
  },
  {
   "n": 9,
   "title": "Bedroom door",
   "stamp": "DIY",
   "system": "Interior",
   "location": "Back bedroom",
   "who": "You",
   "raw_note": "Back bedroom door rubs at the top, top hinge screws loose.",
   "narrative": "The back bedroom door rubs the frame along the top because the top hinge screws have worked loose. Tighten them. If they just spin, swap one for a longer screw that reaches the wall framing. That usually pulls the door back into line.",
   "photo": "photos/09-door-hinge.jpg",
   "photo_size": [
    675,
    1200
   ]
  },
  {
   "n": 10,
   "title": "Downspout",
   "stamp": "DIY",
   "system": "Exterior",
   "location": "Rear left corner",
   "who": "You",
   "raw_note": "Rear left downspout dumping right at the foundation, no extension.",
   "narrative": "The rear left downspout empties right against the foundation. Over time that soaks the soil and can push water toward the basement. Add a downspout extension or a splash block so the water lands at least 4 to 6 feet from the house. It's an inexpensive hardware store part and takes a few minutes to put on.",
   "photo": "photos/10-downspout-foundation.jpg",
   "photo_size": [
    1200,
    900
   ]
  }
 ]
}